By Becky Moore

At first glance, the new Bar Avignon appears to stray a bit far from the chill settings that have thus far characterized SE Portland’s casual eat-n-sip style. After all, we knew former Wildwood wine director Randy Goodman was behind the place. What we didn’t expect to find, alongside a nice glass of Cotes-du-Rhone, were 16-oz. cans of PBR, Tecate and even the good ol’ American Hamms. And we certainly didn’t expect to see Randy and wife, Nancy Hunt, wearing tees, shorts and sneaks.

So is it upscale or casual? Surely it can’t be both.

But it is. With the aesthetic of an urban wine bar and the comfort of a neighborhood pub, Avignon attracts both residents and vistors who appreciate a nice yet unpretentious setting, and the pairing of a good sipper and even better conversation.

Located in the spot where the beloved Red and Black Café used to reside, Bar Avignon benefits from a neighborhood already buzzing with libations and culinary notoriety. But this place stands out. It is, above all, a local bar, but their primary focus is neither drink nor noshing. What they really sell is community. For this, the place is something of an enigma, taking hold of a particular niche almost untouched in our fair city.

The place is smallish and seats a rough 50 or so, with a handful of refurbished poplar tables, three nice booths and a spread of two-tops outside. Harboring a fresh contemporary vibe yet bound by some rawness, it is a visual nod to the senses. New visitors are immediately impressed by the handsome bar made from salvaged Oregon Black Walnut wood and underneath, wainscoting painted a cheery cornflower blue and cast with shiny coat hooks. This blend of rustic and urban, seen also in an old railroad tie horizontally used as a shelf for a grouping of modern art, is the emodiment the very raw-meets-refined character of the place.

Considering the breadth of their wine list, we made the mistake of assuming their prices would extend well beyond our reach. But then we discovered a charming series of “likes” on their website, with the first on the list: “Cheap red wine that tastes good.”

Not the standard suggestion from a sommelier. Of course, cheap is relative. To us, that means a jug of Carlo Rossi and camp cups. So in those terms, cheap they are not. Perhaps what they mean is: Good red wine that doesn’t cost four arms and three legs. And that is an altogether different ballgame, as Goodman will tell you. For finding a nice bottle of expensive wine is plainly effortless, but finding a good wine that is budget-friendly is a challenge.

Although we couldn’t get through the 80-bottle list in one sitting, we have this hunch that there isn’t a single dud in the bunch. Amazingly, close to 30 of these are offered by the glass — in the $8 and under range, no less — and include everything from Pinot Noir to Pinot Gris, bubbly to rosé, and Chilean Carmenere to French Viognier.

Calling themselves “a neighborhood bar and bottle shop,” it should be noted that every wine in-house is also sold at retail (at a 25% discount), so you don’t have to search elsewhere when your new favorite red is just an arm-length away.

More importantly, Bar Avignon is far from just a wine bar and really appeals to imbibers of all stripes, with Stumptown coffee and Foxfire tea, plus a full bar, eight brews on tap and an additional medley of micros and fancy imports by the bottle.

Behind the bar is a kitchen the size of a washroom, but that’s all Chef Chad Brown (formerly of Nostrana) really requires. For the most part, plates are small and largely not meal-makers. But don’t assume they lack any ounce of punch, for their flavor factor is unmatched. Light bites, including herb-roasted olives and paprika-spiced hazelnuts, mingle with bigger bites like bruschetta spread generously with goat cheese and roasted beets. Other choices include a surprisingly light chilled potato leek soup topped with crispy fried almonds and crème fraiche, plus an exceptional fingerling potato salad, naked apart from the garlic and capers, with a zingy rosemary aioli served on the side for personal preference.

Nothing on the menu exceeds $10. In fact, most plates hover around five bucks a pop, like the build-your-own cheese and meat boards compiled of Northwest and exotic selections and a range of rich condiments. If you want more than a snack, the paninis are the only menu offerings that are really meal-sized, served with a decent sized salad of farm fresh greens. The veggie panini, $9, is made with pesto, ricotta and roasted tomatoes, while the pork variety, $10, is paired with pickled peppers and manchego.

Because of the small plate portions, Bar Avignon is an ideal jumping-off point for the evening, or a final destination on a culinary tour, where you won’t get harassed by restaurant staff for a conversation that extends well past the meal. Stop by for dessert, for example, and savor a petite almond cake with cassis and crème fraiche or the decadent vanilla bean creme brulée — matched, of course, with an organic port or pear brandy.

The very essence of Bar Avignon is captured in the large community table that sits near the back of the house (surrounded by 10-foot walls of wine, no less). While it makes a great spot for small gatherings or hosted wine tastings, the table begs to be used as a place where strangers can share conversation and bond over a bottle of Tempranillo, or where nearby residents can discuss neighborhood news as a group. This endearing sense of community is why we give Bar Avignon two thumbs way up. The only problem? It will outgrow its space faster than you can say “beer me.”