By Ashley Griffin
October 24, 2007

Aquariva occupies the space formerly known as Rivers and is the newest restaurant paired with the prestigious Avalon Hotel and Spa. No longer a dark hotel style haunt, the space has been transformed with bright red chairs and curtains, rich black leather banquets and a posh lounge. It's swanky interior should cater to both the business folks and spa-goers who frequent the hotel, and diners from every other Portland environ.

Aquariva's upscale Italian cuisine serves as a noteworthy compliment to this rich atmosphere. Executive Chef Drew Lockett hails from Bluehour where he learned never to compromise the quality of his food. His experience and talent present themselves at Aquariva on a small plates menu.

The staff, however, is quick to reject the idea that Aquariva is a tapas style restaurant. Rather, they suggest their dynamic menu is not so much for sharing as for allowing guests to navigate through the offerings based on their individual interests and cravings.

And crave this food they will. Consider a plate of warm asparagus, neatly aligned in a row. Lockett covers the thin stems with flakes of Asiago cheese, san Danielle prosciutto and a fried egg that further leverages the idea that the egg is evolving outside breakfast dishes.

Starters also include a light, tangy Bartlett pear and dandelion greens salad served with hazelnuts, ricotta and white balsamic vinaigrette, and an indulgent fried baby artichokes dish served with garlic aioli. Neither dish is particularly inspired but they are both satisfying just the same.

As expected, Lockett also presents a few pasta dishes on the menu, though they masquerade under guises of their former selves. Lockett's take on traditional ravioli combines a sweet pea filling with leeks and Parmesan. A gnocchi dish branches out with subtle spinach flavor and a tomato-basil fonduta.

Both are ideal precursors to hearty meat dishes. Tonight, a grilled lamb t-bone with fava beans and a barely there splash of mint vinegar is well received, though a braised beef short rib served with a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth polenta and delicate wild leeks trumps it round the table.

An exclusive Italian wine list enhances the menu, featuring simple pairing suggestions designed to complement rather than overwhelm the menu. D'Amico hopes this will encourage guests to trust their instincts as well entrust their palates to the experience of his serviceable staff.

Guests should expect a high level of service as D'Amico previously served stints at El Gaucho, whose "Guest is the King" philosophy is well known with locals. Combined with the upscale atmosphere and heartwarming food, Aquariva certainly has potential to work its way into every Portlander's restaurant Rolodex.