By Melinda Carlson-Smith

I think I may love South America. 

My only hesitation in proclaiming my undying devotion to the southern hemisphere is that I've never traveled that far south of the border. But after a trip to the bar at Andina, I'm ready to clear my schedule and book a flight to Peru.

Andina specializes in "Novoandina" cuisine. Now, my Spanish is spotty at best, but after carefully studying the menu, I'm pretty sure that means something like “modern interpretations of native Peruvian classics.” What I do know for sure is that they mix a mean cocktail in the bar side of the restaurant, which goes by the name Mestizo. Loosely translated, the word “mestizo” means a mix of European and Latin American ancestry. Considering this is a Pearl District hot spot, I would say they’re doing a pretty good job of blending our two cultures themselves.

The bar is cozy and inviting — colorful cushions dot low benches, perfect for sharing tapas and sipping your neighbor's drink. The warm color scheme makes it feel like you’re enjoying a siesta in the shade instead of dodging raindrops on a dreary Northwest afternoon, and if you time your visit just right (Sun - Thurs 7:00pm, Fri & Sat 8:00pm), you can even sample live jazz and Latin music along with your tasty drinks and savory snacks.

Mestizo offers just under 20 "specialty" cocktails, and the list is filled with tempting selections. I had to try the "Pisco Sour" — it is a traditional Peruvian cocktail after all! I wasn't sorry either; it's a tart blend of Pisco (that's a special type of Peruvian Brandy) shaken up with cane sugar and lime juice, then topped off with whipped egg whites. (Don’t get the wrong idea — it’s not like Rocky’s raw egg breakfasts. Egg whites are an old-school bartending trick for adding a light frothiness to cocktails, and they impart a pleasant smoothness when drinking).

After that adventure, I was ready for more. When I tried to order the “Sacsayhuamán," I learned that it’s pronounced like “sexy woman,” though it’s the name of the ancient walled fortress at the Peruvian city of Cuzco and means “satisfied falcon.” Thank goodness, too, because I don’t order drinks with names that encourage girls to “go wild” on their spring break in Cozumel. Turns out I was more than satisfied with the drink. It's spicy and refreshing at the same time — habañero pepper-infused vodka is mixed up with passion fruit puree and set off with a sprig of cilantro. I'll be ordering that one again, and next time, I'll say it loud and proud: "Sexy Woman, over here!"

Though the signature concoctions are amazing, also don’t ignore the “ordinary” cocktails available. One of my friends had the good sense to ask for a Piña Colada, and was kind enough to offer me a sip. This wasn’t the syrupy-sweet tropical concoction I’m used to; it was a coco-nutty revelation — fresh and light and creamy. Piña Coladas aren't usually on my list of top ten cocktails, but this drink is not to be missed. Other drinks on the menu promised exotic ingredients like roasted pineapple-infused rum, spiced hibiscus cooler, drunken cucumber and something called “Mexican love potion”. I’ll have to book a return trip to sample those.

On top of it all, Mestizo has a daily happy hour, and since the usually $8 cocktails are discounted to $5 (along with some food deals), this is the best way to sample the menu without wiping out your vacation fund. Tapas, desserts and other snacks are served all night in the bar and at lunch and dinner in the restaurant area — in case your own personal "happy hour" doesn't happen to match up with theirs. We tried several selections, all of them delicious, though the standout to me was the "Lomo Saltado" — tenderloin strips wok-fried with onions, tomatoes and soy sauce, served with a side of fried yucca. The beef was tender and tasty, and the fried yucca root was a delightfully exotic twist on french fries.
It does tend to get a bit crowded on the weekends, so you may want to give Mestizo/Andina a try during the off hours, or slip in a mid-week visit. It’s a mini-vacation of gastronomic and cocktail delights, much quicker than a trip to Peru and won’t leave you with a case of jet lag.