April 11, 2007 -- By Lise Harwin

What do an elementary school in the Philippines, a barn in Medford, a Denny’s in Jantzen Beach and the former Lloyd Center Sheraton all have in common? Every single one of these locations contributed a little something to Thatch, Portland’s only non-smoking, no karaoke tiki bar.

Thatch’s owner, Robert Volz, believes firmly in the concepts of reuse and recycle. That’s why he made such an effort to bring in the floors from southern Oregon and the tables from South America. Mid-century enthusiasts will love that he personally ripped out the original orange booths from a classic Armet and Davis-designed Denny’s restaurant. And, most importantly, tiki aficionados will swoon at the original memorabilia from Trader Vic’s and, of course, Portland’s own Kon Tiki.

It’s this passion for the often-overlooked details that makes Thatch such a great find. From the brightly colored blowfish overhead (yes, they are real) to the honest-to-god thatched roof, once you cross over the babbling brook complete with (not real) sea turtle, you really are transported to the tropics. Best of all, there’s no plane ticket required.

While Thatch started out with a limited menu for both food and drinks, it’s been slowly growing over time. The current lineup includes cocktails with house-made blue curacao and sweet almond-flavored orgeat, a variety of appetizers — also called pu-pus — and several entrées. When your drinks arrive, expect features like parasols and coconut cups to add some island flavor to the already fruity beverages. Be on the lookout for those who take the plunge and order the Tiki Punch, which arrives in an earthen bowl supported by three mini tiki gods, or the $28 Volcano Bowl, a flaming Thatch original made with vodka, white rum, coconut, pineapple, lemon, cranberry and banana, served with a bevy of extraordinarily long straws (minimum three people). While you can get old standbys like a martini or a cosmo, this is one time patrons should take a hint from the natives. (P.S. Natives also know not to miss the 5:00pm - 6:30p.m. happy hour with discounted Mai Tai's!)

Of course, the over-the-top theatrics aren’t just reserved for the bar. Try the always entertaining pu-pu platter ($28) made up of six different appetizers ranging from crab Rangoon to egg rolls and friend shrimp, all designed to be shared and eaten with your fingers. Reasonably priced entrées include slow-cooked pork with carrots and pineapple and chicken skewers served with a tangy coconut ginger dipping sauce. Need a lighter bite? Try macadamias and cashews, kept warm and toasty in the “nut hut,” a cute little heated house that pours them out at the touch of a button.

Judging by the crowds that pour in on the weekends — including groups of 10 that can take over the “VIP hut” in the back — Thatch should be a mainstay in our community for longer than some of the tiki bars that preceded it. With true craftsmen behind the bar and an outrigger canoe on the ceiling, think of Thatch as a vacation paradise that you’re lucky to have close to home.