Portland's Food Family
How We Are All Connected
By Mark Stock
Portlanders are lucky to have so many fine edibles growing in their own damp soil. Luckier still to have one of the ripest food scenes in the nation, full of innovative, locally-minded chefs, seasonality, and personality. Together, they’ve built quite a gastronomical tree, related in purpose and in some cases personnel, but differing in what ends up on the plate.Aalto Lounge 3356 SE Belmont St.Species: Premier Pub Grub Roots: Named after Finnish designer Alvar Aalto, the lounge is tremendously casual. But the grub defies the simple surroundings, tasty and thoughtful. Open late and home of movie nights and stiff cocktails. Distinctions: Panini’s, vegan meatballs and a strong French wine list. Branching Out: See Savoy.Savoy 2500 SE Clinton St.Species: Midwestern (“Hot Dishes”) Roots: Peter Bro’s first delve into bistro-dom after starting Aalto a couple of years prior. The menu feels like it was written by a Wisconsinite one hundred years ago. Belly warming dishes perfect for the cooler, darker days ahead. Distinctions: Dr. Pepper Braised Spare Ribs, Pan Fried Trout, Devil’s Food Cake. Branching Out: Owner Peter Bro also runs Broder in the adjacent building, as well as Aalto.Broder 2508 SE Clinton St.Species: Scandinavian Roots: The breakfast mecca began in the summer of ’07, with a tendency for the sweet but still preparing the savory. The interior is a scene from the local Ikea, modern and colorful. Dinner here is often overlooked, but nearly as delightful. Distinctions: Lingonberry Jam, Coffee Cake, Smorgasbord. Branching Out: See Savoy.Radio Room NE Alberta & 11th Ave.Species: Americana Roots: An Alberta Street baby, Radio Room just opened its doors this year. Architecturally and atmospherically akin to the Doug Fir, the look is at once old and new - polished retro. Two stories, including a rooftop section and an outdoor fire pit make for year roundedness. A full dinner menu, albeit a bit steep, is good through the 11 o’clock hour. Distinctions: Biscuits and Gravy, Trucker Breakfast. Branching Out:Doug Fir 830 E BurnsideSpecies: Americana Roots: 2004 saw take off of this Stanley Kubrick lighted and rustic cabin from the future. Now a top music venue, it’s easy to forget about the Fir’s extremely friendly hours and locally-minded menu. A staff so hip it injects a hearty dose of east Portland into the establishment. Distinctions: Tempura Battered Onion Rings, Apple Creek Pork Chop, Grandma’s Meatloaf. Branching Out:Tabla 200 NE 28th Ave.Species: Mediterranean Roots: A collage built from some of the best gastronomical regions in the world, Tabla serves Greek, Italian, French and more. A woody and fluid interior is artsy and therapeutic. A superb bar and happy hour makes off hours just as rewarding. Distinctions: Ravioli, Duck Live Mousse, Chocolate Soufflé. Branching Out: Owner Adam Berger also runs Ten 01 and relative newcomer Nutshell.Ten 01 1001 NW Couch St.Species: Northwest Roots: Perhaps the priciest and most cosmopolitan, the ever-changing and impressive menu at Ten 01 is the work of executive chef Jack Ross. The angel food cake white interior is spotless and upstanding, creating a classic backdrop for a menu that is perpetually new and very much its own. Distinctions: Sweet Corn Bisque, Cascade Natural Ribeye, Chorizo Burger. Branching Out: See Tabla.Nutshell 3808 N WilliamsSpecies: Vegan/Vegetarian Roots: The mostly vegan restaurant took off in 2007 with a philosophy built around the incorporation of small, sustainable farms in the area. With a small plate mentality, diners are encouraged to run the gamut of their green list of offerings. Distinctions: Crispy Risotto Cake, Fried Cucumbers with Coriander, Maple Chocolate Tart. Branching Out: See Tabla.Higgins 1239 SW BroadwaySpecies: Northwest Roots: Chef Greg Higgins may be Portland’s farm-to-fork king, kick-starting what is now precedent in the local food scene. His restaurant opened in 1994, with a menu that’s changed a million times since. Always seasonal and ever local, Higgins creations, from the sauces to the meats to the ice cream, are all made in house. Distinctions: Charcuterie, Halibut, Cioppino, their wine list. Branching Out: A true culinary launch pad, many of the chefs and sous chefs in Portland have worked here.Paley’s Place 1204 NW 21st Ave.Species: Northwest Roots: The seed was planted in 1995, in a cozy Victorian home on NW 21st Ave. The fifty-seat, curtain-shrouded restaurant is friendly and intimate, with a wait staff that floats about, non-intrusive and knowledgeable. Distinctions: Duck Fat Fried Potatoes with Roasted Tomato Salsa, Stuffed Saddle of Venison, Corn Flan, Haricots Verts & Huckleberry Game Jus, Duck Sausage & Crispy Duck Wing Salad, Roasted Figs & Mustard Vinaigrette. Branching Out: Chef and owner Vitaly Paley started in New York and now shares the same purveyor as Higgins Restaurant.Beast 5425 NE 30th AveSpecies: Pigtastic Roots: Chalkboard walls, the surrounding neighborhood and an open kitchen make chewing at Beast like eating at your gifted Grandmother’s home. Dinner is served twice (unless arranged otherwise), the menu labored over, fixed and finite. Special wine pairings accent the dishes available at what is arguably Portland’s brightest current dining spot. Distinctions: Pork Shoulder, Cheese Selction, Caramel Profiteroles. Branching Out: Owner Micah Camden also runs across-the-street eatery DOC and east side sushi joint Yakuza.DOC 5519 NE 30th AveSpecies: Bistro/Home Kitchen Roots: Another 2008 addition to Portland’s expanding table, DOC looks like a barber shop remodeled. Colorful mason jar preserves line the window shelving and a four table interior could not be more familial. Wine plays equal significance here; fit to compliment all that is edible. The name stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Italy’s gastronomical and enological governing body. Minimal hours and tight quarters mean the focus is entirely on the plates, some of the most creative around. Distinctions: Sturgeon, Gnocchi, Honey Ice Cream. Branching Out: See Beast.Equinox 830 N Shaver St.Species: Miscellaneous Roots: Considered one of North Portland’s best bets, Equinox bares a prime patio, ideal for warm weather feasting. An elastic menu defies any themes and the Mississippi Street setting is hard to argue with. The building is built from recycled materials, an element of sustainability reflected in their hormone, cage and pen free meat and poultry. Distinctions: Black and Blue Omelette, Autumn Pillow (savory puff pastry). Branching Out: Owners Michele Stultz and Tara George also command Belly Timber.Belly Timber 3257 SE HawthorneSpecies: World Cuisine Roots: As old as only this year, Belly Timber resides in an allegedly haunted four-story Victorian home fit with stained glass and gorgeous woodwork. The dollhouse-come-to-life sits in the belly of the Hawthorne beast and serves an eclectic mix of foods at surprisingly reasonable prices. It’s billed as regional, but Timber’s menu is far-reaching. Distinctions: Pigstrami, Banana Pudding. Branching Out: See Equinox.
Portlanders are lucky to have so many fine edibles growing in their own damp soil. Luckier still to have one of the ripest food scenes in the nation, full of innovative, locally-minded chefs, seasonality, and personality. Together, they’ve built quite a gastronomical tree, related in purpose and in some cases personnel, but differing in what ends up on the plate.Aalto Lounge 3356 SE Belmont St.Species: Premier Pub Grub Roots: Named after Finnish designer Alvar Aalto, the lounge is tremendously casual. But the grub defies the simple surroundings, tasty and thoughtful. Open late and home of movie nights and stiff cocktails. Distinctions: Panini’s, vegan meatballs and a strong French wine list. Branching Out: See Savoy.Savoy 2500 SE Clinton St.Species: Midwestern (“Hot Dishes”) Roots: Peter Bro’s first delve into bistro-dom after starting Aalto a couple of years prior. The menu feels like it was written by a Wisconsinite one hundred years ago. Belly warming dishes perfect for the cooler, darker days ahead. Distinctions: Dr. Pepper Braised Spare Ribs, Pan Fried Trout, Devil’s Food Cake. Branching Out: Owner Peter Bro also runs Broder in the adjacent building, as well as Aalto.Broder 2508 SE Clinton St.Species: Scandinavian Roots: The breakfast mecca began in the summer of ’07, with a tendency for the sweet but still preparing the savory. The interior is a scene from the local Ikea, modern and colorful. Dinner here is often overlooked, but nearly as delightful. Distinctions: Lingonberry Jam, Coffee Cake, Smorgasbord. Branching Out: See Savoy.Radio Room NE Alberta & 11th Ave.Species: Americana Roots: An Alberta Street baby, Radio Room just opened its doors this year. Architecturally and atmospherically akin to the Doug Fir, the look is at once old and new - polished retro. Two stories, including a rooftop section and an outdoor fire pit make for year roundedness. A full dinner menu, albeit a bit steep, is good through the 11 o’clock hour. Distinctions: Biscuits and Gravy, Trucker Breakfast. Branching Out:Doug Fir 830 E BurnsideSpecies: Americana Roots: 2004 saw take off of this Stanley Kubrick lighted and rustic cabin from the future. Now a top music venue, it’s easy to forget about the Fir’s extremely friendly hours and locally-minded menu. A staff so hip it injects a hearty dose of east Portland into the establishment. Distinctions: Tempura Battered Onion Rings, Apple Creek Pork Chop, Grandma’s Meatloaf. Branching Out:Tabla 200 NE 28th Ave.Species: Mediterranean Roots: A collage built from some of the best gastronomical regions in the world, Tabla serves Greek, Italian, French and more. A woody and fluid interior is artsy and therapeutic. A superb bar and happy hour makes off hours just as rewarding. Distinctions: Ravioli, Duck Live Mousse, Chocolate Soufflé. Branching Out: Owner Adam Berger also runs Ten 01 and relative newcomer Nutshell.Ten 01 1001 NW Couch St.Species: Northwest Roots: Perhaps the priciest and most cosmopolitan, the ever-changing and impressive menu at Ten 01 is the work of executive chef Jack Ross. The angel food cake white interior is spotless and upstanding, creating a classic backdrop for a menu that is perpetually new and very much its own. Distinctions: Sweet Corn Bisque, Cascade Natural Ribeye, Chorizo Burger. Branching Out: See Tabla.Nutshell 3808 N WilliamsSpecies: Vegan/Vegetarian Roots: The mostly vegan restaurant took off in 2007 with a philosophy built around the incorporation of small, sustainable farms in the area. With a small plate mentality, diners are encouraged to run the gamut of their green list of offerings. Distinctions: Crispy Risotto Cake, Fried Cucumbers with Coriander, Maple Chocolate Tart. Branching Out: See Tabla.Higgins 1239 SW BroadwaySpecies: Northwest Roots: Chef Greg Higgins may be Portland’s farm-to-fork king, kick-starting what is now precedent in the local food scene. His restaurant opened in 1994, with a menu that’s changed a million times since. Always seasonal and ever local, Higgins creations, from the sauces to the meats to the ice cream, are all made in house. Distinctions: Charcuterie, Halibut, Cioppino, their wine list. Branching Out: A true culinary launch pad, many of the chefs and sous chefs in Portland have worked here.Paley’s Place 1204 NW 21st Ave.Species: Northwest Roots: The seed was planted in 1995, in a cozy Victorian home on NW 21st Ave. The fifty-seat, curtain-shrouded restaurant is friendly and intimate, with a wait staff that floats about, non-intrusive and knowledgeable. Distinctions: Duck Fat Fried Potatoes with Roasted Tomato Salsa, Stuffed Saddle of Venison, Corn Flan, Haricots Verts & Huckleberry Game Jus, Duck Sausage & Crispy Duck Wing Salad, Roasted Figs & Mustard Vinaigrette. Branching Out: Chef and owner Vitaly Paley started in New York and now shares the same purveyor as Higgins Restaurant.Beast 5425 NE 30th AveSpecies: Pigtastic Roots: Chalkboard walls, the surrounding neighborhood and an open kitchen make chewing at Beast like eating at your gifted Grandmother’s home. Dinner is served twice (unless arranged otherwise), the menu labored over, fixed and finite. Special wine pairings accent the dishes available at what is arguably Portland’s brightest current dining spot. Distinctions: Pork Shoulder, Cheese Selction, Caramel Profiteroles. Branching Out: Owner Micah Camden also runs across-the-street eatery DOC and east side sushi joint Yakuza.DOC 5519 NE 30th AveSpecies: Bistro/Home Kitchen Roots: Another 2008 addition to Portland’s expanding table, DOC looks like a barber shop remodeled. Colorful mason jar preserves line the window shelving and a four table interior could not be more familial. Wine plays equal significance here; fit to compliment all that is edible. The name stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Italy’s gastronomical and enological governing body. Minimal hours and tight quarters mean the focus is entirely on the plates, some of the most creative around. Distinctions: Sturgeon, Gnocchi, Honey Ice Cream. Branching Out: See Beast.Equinox 830 N Shaver St.Species: Miscellaneous Roots: Considered one of North Portland’s best bets, Equinox bares a prime patio, ideal for warm weather feasting. An elastic menu defies any themes and the Mississippi Street setting is hard to argue with. The building is built from recycled materials, an element of sustainability reflected in their hormone, cage and pen free meat and poultry. Distinctions: Black and Blue Omelette, Autumn Pillow (savory puff pastry). Branching Out: Owners Michele Stultz and Tara George also command Belly Timber.Belly Timber 3257 SE HawthorneSpecies: World Cuisine Roots: As old as only this year, Belly Timber resides in an allegedly haunted four-story Victorian home fit with stained glass and gorgeous woodwork. The dollhouse-come-to-life sits in the belly of the Hawthorne beast and serves an eclectic mix of foods at surprisingly reasonable prices. It’s billed as regional, but Timber’s menu is far-reaching. Distinctions: Pigstrami, Banana Pudding. Branching Out: See Equinox.
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